How to choose a lens for your camera?

Lens selection Is a real challenge for a beginner photographer and a dilemma for a professional. The abundance of offers makes you seriously think: what model of photographic equipment to choose, while making the most profitable purchase?

Buying the lenses in an online store, it is helpful to know which functions and features affect the shooting and image quality.

So, one of the key characteristics is focal length, as the ability of the equipment to visually change the range of an object. The required focus indicators are determined by the camera resolution and are of the following types:

  • super wide-angle;
  • wide-angle;
  • standard;
  • telephoto lenses.

Another indicator of high-quality shooting is the lens aperture, which characterizes the matrix illumination level. Adequate aperture allows you to get clear pictures with high quality images. High-aperture lenses are expensive equipment, but this price is quite reasonable, because they guarantee:

  • High sharpness.
  • Low aberration (image error).
  • A successful construct.

It is also possible to obtain high-quality photos using the Image Stabilizer, a mechanical compensation of the camera's angular movements, which prevents the appearance of a blurred image as a result of shooting. To maximize the efficiency of this technology, it is worth purchasing special stabilized lenses suitable for photo shoots in poor light.

When buying a lens, do not forget about the peculiarities of its design, because a well-thought-out device and reliability of the equipment will facilitate the process of work and extend the service life of the photo accessory.

It is important to know that manufacturers of photographic equipment use a proprietary bayonet mount - an optical device mount, so the search for a lens should be made among the model range of the manufacturer whose camera you are using.

Is it worth saving on quality equipment?

Anyone who is seriously into photography knows that the cost of quality professional photography equipment is very high. Sometimes this forces the photographer to look for budget proposals in the photographic equipment market. Such savings may be appropriate if:

  • the purpose of the lens acquisition is high-level amateur photography;
  • this purchase is additional and the photographer already has an arsenal of optics;
  • the equipment is educational, and in the future it will be replaced with a high-class device.

When you are not constrained by money, it is not recommended to save on photographic equipment. Low cost lenses tend to have poor technical ability and show much worse shooting results (fuzzy and blurry images). In addition, to reduce the cost of equipment, manufacturers are forced to complete devices with inexpensive spare parts, which makes the shooting process less comfortable and reduces the life of the lens.

Which lens to choose for a full frame?

If a photographer is asking such a question, then most likely he has little experience so far. Therefore, we will proceed from the fact that a lens is needed for all occasions. But absolutely universal lenses do not exist. Even very expensive ones.

For example, if a lens boasts a perfect picture, it will fixed lens... The downside will be less functionality and convenience. When we buy a zoom, we always sacrifice aperture and image quality to a certain extent. In order to understand what is more important for a particular photographer, you need to gain experience in shooting. And it's better to start with zooms, tk. they provide an opportunity to compare and feel different focal lengths.

Canon EF 24-85mm f3.5-4.5 USM - overview

This is the lens I would recommend starting with. First, it is very inexpensive. Its price / quality ratio is very good. It is sharp, compact, and offers a very convenient range of focal lengths over a full frame. This is exactly the model with which it is good to start. And only then it will be possible to determine which focal optics are more in demand and which more serious optics are worth buying.

Someone may ask why not take the first Canon EF 24-105 f4L IS? The fact is that the Canon 24-105 f4L IS is a rather mediocre lens in its class. He does not give bokeh, the aperture is low, the image is boring. Of course, it will be better than Canon EF 24-85 f3.5-4.5 USM, but the price is several times higher. For a trial to decide, it is better to start with a more budgetary model. Then you can already understand for yourself whether it is worth taking Canon EF 24-70 f2.8L or it is better to switch to fixes. Or maybe even leave the Canon EF 24-85 f3.5-4.5 USM for reporting, and shoot for fifty dollars for creativity, which will be discussed later.

Canon EF 50mm f1.4 USM - overview

50mm full frame is a pretty comfortable focal length. In particular, for work in the studio... But it's not only that. Canon 50mm f1.4 is a very fast lens, but it costs little money. This lens, I believe, should be in any photographer's kit. Excellent image quality, remarkable bokeh and compact dimensions are the main characteristics of Canon fifty dollars.

Never drop Canon 50mm f1.4. This lens is very fragile. Its focusing mechanism is very easy to damage. A ремонт it can cost you half the cost of the lens.

full frame lensesTotal

Canon 50mm f1.4 paired with Canon 24-85mm f3.5-4.5 USM will open up a huge scope for the photographer for a creative work for very little money. This is where I would advise you to start mastering the full frame.

In addition. If you buy a Canon camera, my big advice is: buy Canon lenses too. Only they have excellent color rendition and no problems with autofocus. Sigma, Tamron, Tokina - it's all from the evil one. Although I am satisfied Samyang 14mm f2.8 in terms of sharpness, but its color fidelity doesn't match Canon's native lenses.

Which portrait lens should I use for landscapes?

The title of this article deliberately includes oxymoron... After all, it would seem that a portrait lens is needed for portraits, and a landscape lens for landscapes. Yes and no. By the way, this was separately written about here:

Typically ultra-wide angles are used for landscape photography. But this rule doesn't always work.

What is the difference between the transmission of perspective at short and long focal lengths?

Wide angle lens unfolds the perspective: objects in the center of the frame visually become farther from the viewer, while everything that is located in the corners becomes closer. Shooting a landscape at a wide angle (especially an ultra-wide one like 14mm), you should always think about separating the foreground and background. the difference between them is enormous due to the specific rendering of perspective at this focal length.

landscape photo at 14mm 14mm landscape photo [/ caption "thumb_margin_left =" 2 ″ thumb_margin_bottom = "2 ″ thumb_border_radius =" 2 ″ thumb_shadow = "0 1px 4px rgba (0, 0, 0, 0.2)" js_play_delay = "3000 ″ id =" "random = "0 ″ group =" 0 ″ border = "" type = "yoxview" show_in_popup = "0 ″ album_cover =" "album_cover_width =" 200 ″ album_cover_height = "200 ″ popup_width =" 800 ″ popup_max_height = "600 ″ popup_title =" Gallery "sc_id =" sc1494140251333 ″]Telephoto lens on the contrary, it compresses the perspective. The longer the focal length, the less the viewer can see the difference between near and far objects (compression effect). This isn't bad for landscape photography. It simply requires a change in the standard perception of landscape photography (landscape is when everything that the eye sees fits into the frame). By shooting with a telephoto lens, you will only capture a fraction of what is visible with the normal eye. These photos are even more interesting because of the non-standard perspective that creates the effect of layering the landscape.

landscape photo with 70-200mm lens landscape photo with Canon 70-200mm lens [/ caption "thumb_margin_left =" 2 ″ thumb_margin_bottom = "2 ″ thumb_border_radius =" 2 ″ thumb_shadow = "0 1px 4px rgba (0, 0, 0, 0.2)" js_play_delay = "3000 ″ id = "" Random = "0 ″ group =" 0 ″ border = "" type = "yoxview" show_in_popup = "0 ″ album_cover =" "album_cover_width =" 200 ″ album_cover_height = "200 ″ popup_width =" 800 ″ popup_max_height = "600 ″ Popup_title = "Gallery" sc_id = "sc1494140251333 ″]landscape photo at 85mm 85mm landscape photo [/ caption "thumb_margin_left =" 2 ″ thumb_margin_bottom = "2 ″ thumb_border_radius =" 2 ″ thumb_shadow = "0 1px 4px rgba (0, 0, 0, 0.2)" js_play_delay = "3000 ″ id =" "random = "0 ″ group =" 0 ″ border = "" type = "yoxview" show_in_popup = "0 ″ album_cover =" "album_cover_width =" 200 ″ album_cover_height = "200 ″ popup_width =" 800 ″ popup_max_height = "600 ″ popup_title =" Gallery "sc_id =" sc1494140251333 ″]So, let's move on to the main thing. What lens should you choose?

In this article, we are talking about a lens suitable for both portrait and landscape photography. Therefore, it should be borne in mind that not every telephoto lens is a portrait lens. From 200mm shoot portraits will be very problematic. Although for landscape photography extreme focal lengths like 300mm or 400mm can be very interesting.

Lenses that are suitable for both landscapes and portraits:

Why these focal lengths?

I deliberately left out my favorite portrait painter here. Canon EF 85mm f1.8 USMsince 85mm gives a slight compression of the space, which is not enough for the landscape to begin to delaminate beautifully. The 135mm fix is ​​certainly good, in particular because of the incredible sharpness, which is important for landscape photography, and it is also half the size and lighter than the 70-200 zoom. But for landscape photography, the 70-200 will still be more interesting, because you can control the perspective and crop interesting parts of the landscape. And in order for the 70-200 to cope better with portraits, of course, you need to take the faster version with f2.8. Although, if your focus is more on landscape photography, then an inexpensive, lighter and more compact f4 will do just as well.

By the way, for a sample, you can do with a manual lens. For example:

This 135mm lens is remarkably sharp from an open aperture of f3.5 and is very compact for travel. In portraits, it will be harder. Manual focus will make itself felt - you will see it on a bored model while you focus :)

When shooting landscapes on telephoto, you need to understand that the scope for activity is, of course, more limited than with shirikas. Please note that to shoot a landscape on a telephoto camera, there must be an open area in front of you, viewed for kilometers into the distance.